04 08 2019 – Day 12 – The Guide at Estonia


I could feel in the beginning of 2nd tour that Guide is very passionate about History & Politics. This was the theme of walking tour to make visitors aware, how Estonia suffered? The negative bias was obviously towards Russia.

We were passing by the KGB Museum. After that we were to visit KGB Prison Cells (KGB Prison Cells are in the heart of the Old Town at Pagari 1. The building has long been a symbol of the former Soviet oppression in Estonia. For thousands of Estonians, the course of suffering began from this place). Guide was talking about an eye opening reminder of just how the KGB played the part of Big Brother actually in ‘his’ life time. I was baffled by the level of spying methodology, then of KGB. Here was the never-before-told story of the KGB--full of stunning revelations, fascinating characters, and crucial moments in history--much of it based on the knowledge of self experience of Guide himself. I was listening to the most thorough and enthralling history ever of Soviet intelligence & intervention into the life of Estonian.

The fact of life was – The Grandmother (Mothers Mother) of the Guide was activist against Russian. She was working in a factory & she was sort of Union Leader. KGB approached the father of Guide for keeping watch on Grandma. The deal was, KGB will give him a Flat, 2 BHK in Soviet Blocks of Tallinn. In the era of scarcity, 2 BHK flat was too big reward for ‘small spying activity’. The deal was done & father shared all information about his family member- mother-in-law for almost 10 years. In those 10 years, nothing major happed & the Guide with his grandma, father & mother stayed in small house at downtown. Estonia remained occupied by the Soviet Union until restoration of its independence in 1991 and the 48 years of Soviet occupation and annexation is not rendered legal by most international governments. During this occupation, the father of the guide was rewarded by the flat in soviet building blocks. Upon death of mother in law, father confessed & shared the facts. When mother comes to know about activities of husband, father & mother got separated. They now stay in different countries. Father lives in Bulgaria while mother stay in Estonia with Guide. These are ‘human ruins’ of occupation. For mother of Guide, it must be unthinkable to have KGB spy in house for many years. Yes but in aggression times, only unthinkable happens. My understanding of History of Estonia was deepening. Most of the times, small countries suffer more.

I was impressed by Guide for the fact that he was sharing personal story. He showed the various medals conferred to his grandma. Actually you ‘feel’ the history better as you are on the spot where it happened.

We visited Russian Cinema Theatre. This place was used for propaganda. As a matter of fact, Russia had funded Estonia for producing films. I become aware about Estonia & its struggle story. I felt good about not bypassing Estonia. The border at Navra River is also disputed one. EUs Border at this point is not defined. This is news to me. Folks if you are visiting any city, just check if free tour guide is available. There is no other better way to understand the city & its history. The Tallinn city is amazing from architecture perspective. Buildings are beautiful & every building has story tell. In last 700 years roads have not changed. If an old merchant takes rebirth, he can tell where they were staying.

Tomorrow, I need to go to Finland. Now my schedule dictates me. I went to port & purchased the ticket of ship to cross the sea between Estonia & Finland.


It’s time to booze now. Already 8 pm. There was a Super Market, in front of Hostel. Today, I picked ready to eat stuff & bottle of beer. So I can conclude routine of Dinner. Please note that my hostel’s name is ‘ Red Emperor Bar & Hostel’. I picked the peanuts bought from India & opened the beer in the Hostel’s Bar. 

In the crowed of bar & in the commotion of noise, I was alone thinking about the day’s proceedings & history. Suddenly, a girl approached me to check if I am Indian. I said ‘yes’. She said, ‘I guessed so’. I was watching her in our hostel since morning moving with European guy. Also I spotted her in free tour also. She was trying to avoid eye contact with me since morning. I quipped ‘I guess you are also from India’. She nodded. She was from Delhi, visiting Estonia only for a week & shall be returning to native land. Without asking, she mentioned that this European met her in Estonia. Actually I don’t bother about these things while in transit, but since girl in the case was Indian, a racist thought crossed my mind. Approximately, a 25 yrs Hindu girl with Christian boy of 32 yrs in foreign land having a wine. Known to each other only for 2 days. Everything was out of box, abnormal. I offered peanuts. She picked the nuts, as they were irresistible. While catching every nut in mouth, she was spilling the beans. Her disclosure was very premature considering the relations of 5 mints with me. But, yes, let the life continue, I thought. She ‘divulged’ a typical story of parents fighting in Delhi & she was looking for a break. Estonia happened to best choice as it is a cheap country to stay. Chapter Over. I picked up the last peanut, sipped the last drop of beer and said ‘nice meeting with you’. I added last phrase by looking into her eyes ‘take care’. I don’t know if it was a racist remark or words out of care. Her boyfriend was looking at me with weirdly. I said, ‘Who cares?’, and pushed the sandwich in my mouth.


It was 11 pm while I was retiring. My ships scheduled departure is at 5 am. I need to start at 4 am from Hostel, walking distance 3 kilometers. I need to get-up at 3-30 am & have shower. While lining up many activities, I become ‘dead to the world’, a usual.

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